http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/ Thu, 07 May 2026 01:02:47 +0000 MyBB http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=24298 Wed, 06 Nov 2024 16:18:31 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=24298
Does anybody know what the error code P003C is on an MG ZS 2021 1.0 petrol?
It keeps throwing up the EML but doesn’t throw it in to limp mode. It clears and then comes back after about 20 minutes of driving.

A***D*** says intake camshaft profile control A, bank 1 - Performance or stuck off.
But I haven’t got a clue what this means.

Any ideas guys?
Cheers.]]>
Does anybody know what the error code P003C is on an MG ZS 2021 1.0 petrol?
It keeps throwing up the EML but doesn’t throw it in to limp mode. It clears and then comes back after about 20 minutes of driving.

A***D*** says intake camshaft profile control A, bank 1 - Performance or stuck off.
But I haven’t got a clue what this means.

Any ideas guys?
Cheers.]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=24007 Wed, 01 Mar 2023 13:48:19 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=24007 Is it possible to remove the speed limiter of one of these Vehicles?
LDV Maxus 2007 2.5 diesel.
It has a Bosch ECU: 0 281 013 348, 43002034F.
Also is possible to delete the EGR as well?
I have Carprog and i also FGTech V54 as well as some eeprom readers.
Best wishes.
James]]> Is it possible to remove the speed limiter of one of these Vehicles?
LDV Maxus 2007 2.5 diesel.
It has a Bosch ECU: 0 281 013 348, 43002034F.
Also is possible to delete the EGR as well?
I have Carprog and i also FGTech V54 as well as some eeprom readers.
Best wishes.
James]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23603 Sat, 13 Nov 2021 23:43:36 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23603

I am planning of getting soon, another, just waiting my current one to be sold...

At the moment i am considering one of these cars.

Acura RLX year 2014 non Hybrid 3.5 engine petrol since Hybrid is more expensive imported from USA or Canada, Lexus GS450H it can be Hybrid or just petrol 3.5 engine it can be from Europe or imported again... same year 2014.

Jaguar XF after year 2012 diesel 3 liter engine is made from peugeot not really sure if that's reliable car... and good choice.
Maserati Ghibli or Quadra Porte, unfortunately not much information about these i event cant locate service manual so may be they will be very hard to work on...

Infiniti Q70/M petrol engine 3.7 or 3.5 petrol.

I think that's the cars which came to my mind into the moment, please tell me which one is the most reliable and easy to work, and also have full service manuals over the forum, i don't manage to find Acura RLX or Lexus GS 2014 year any service manuals over the forum, where i live none of these have dealerships or parts available every single part will be imported from abroad which will cause a lot of time/weeks or months and complicated repairs.

Thanks in advance.]]>

I am planning of getting soon, another, just waiting my current one to be sold...

At the moment i am considering one of these cars.

Acura RLX year 2014 non Hybrid 3.5 engine petrol since Hybrid is more expensive imported from USA or Canada, Lexus GS450H it can be Hybrid or just petrol 3.5 engine it can be from Europe or imported again... same year 2014.

Jaguar XF after year 2012 diesel 3 liter engine is made from peugeot not really sure if that's reliable car... and good choice.
Maserati Ghibli or Quadra Porte, unfortunately not much information about these i event cant locate service manual so may be they will be very hard to work on...

Infiniti Q70/M petrol engine 3.7 or 3.5 petrol.

I think that's the cars which came to my mind into the moment, please tell me which one is the most reliable and easy to work, and also have full service manuals over the forum, i don't manage to find Acura RLX or Lexus GS 2014 year any service manuals over the forum, where i live none of these have dealerships or parts available every single part will be imported from abroad which will cause a lot of time/weeks or months and complicated repairs.

Thanks in advance.]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23249 Sun, 15 Nov 2020 17:12:22 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23249 Just wondered what the ABC letters around the control module mean?
The guide next to it says:
A=32
B=20
C=16

[attachment=40617]]]> Just wondered what the ABC letters around the control module mean?
The guide next to it says:
A=32
B=20
C=16

[attachment=40617]]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23242 Sun, 08 Nov 2020 18:22:08 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=23242
I have started to put together this common faults spreadsheet.
Please add to it all your common faults you can remember & re-post.

Regards.

Dave Williams
Swiss road garage]]>
I have started to put together this common faults spreadsheet.
Please add to it all your common faults you can remember & re-post.

Regards.

Dave Williams
Swiss road garage]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22904 Sun, 03 May 2020 10:57:47 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22904
Special products for cleaning EGR valves like EGR Bardahl are either not found or are expensive.
From videos on the internet I observed that the products used to remove soot in the EGR system had a foaming component.
Added more probably to a product based on dispersant for hydrocarbons.
Question: What if the valuable experts in this forum could suggest solutions to develop of a homemade and safe detergent to efficiently clean the EGR valves?
As first contribution to this issue I found this:




Best regards.]]>
Special products for cleaning EGR valves like EGR Bardahl are either not found or are expensive.
From videos on the internet I observed that the products used to remove soot in the EGR system had a foaming component.
Added more probably to a product based on dispersant for hydrocarbons.
Question: What if the valuable experts in this forum could suggest solutions to develop of a homemade and safe detergent to efficiently clean the EGR valves?
As first contribution to this issue I found this:




Best regards.]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22903 Sun, 03 May 2020 10:08:09 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22903
Need to do an inspection on a vehicle and trying to find a comprehensive checklist for a car is proving difficult.
Need one that covers all aspects, electrics, steering, body, transmission etc.
Does anybody have one in printable form?

Cheers! ]]>
Need to do an inspection on a vehicle and trying to find a comprehensive checklist for a car is proving difficult.
Need one that covers all aspects, electrics, steering, body, transmission etc.
Does anybody have one in printable form?

Cheers! ]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22739 Sun, 26 Jan 2020 13:44:25 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22739
I am looking for a replacement of IP lubricants we used for years and I was thinking to ask in AP forum what lubricant brand/type you guys use in your workshop.

You can write what oil brand/ type/ viscosity and for what car brands you use them. Also what are your experiences, opinions and recommendations.

I have been using Comma Lubricants (10w40 Eurolite and 5w30 Prolife) for some weeks. They have a good profit margin but I don't know if they are trustworthy.

I have also an offer for Texaco Havoline Lubricants but they aren't so popular in Europe I think and some tests I see in Youtube are a little bit disappointing.

Thanks!]]>
I am looking for a replacement of IP lubricants we used for years and I was thinking to ask in AP forum what lubricant brand/type you guys use in your workshop.

You can write what oil brand/ type/ viscosity and for what car brands you use them. Also what are your experiences, opinions and recommendations.

I have been using Comma Lubricants (10w40 Eurolite and 5w30 Prolife) for some weeks. They have a good profit margin but I don't know if they are trustworthy.

I have also an offer for Texaco Havoline Lubricants but they aren't so popular in Europe I think and some tests I see in Youtube are a little bit disappointing.

Thanks!]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22655 Mon, 16 Dec 2019 21:55:14 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22655 The last 3 I have have fitted on Peugeot 207 1,4D, Hyundai i30, Suzuki Alto have all had problems immediately.
The Peugeot had clearance problems which was replaced with a Transmech which was perfect.
The last two were replaced with Blueprint units which were perfect with the Hyundai one being a genuine clutch.
The Suzuki Alto LUK one was half LUK, half Exedy.
Do anyone else have problems?]]> The last 3 I have have fitted on Peugeot 207 1,4D, Hyundai i30, Suzuki Alto have all had problems immediately.
The Peugeot had clearance problems which was replaced with a Transmech which was perfect.
The last two were replaced with Blueprint units which were perfect with the Hyundai one being a genuine clutch.
The Suzuki Alto LUK one was half LUK, half Exedy.
Do anyone else have problems?]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=21842 Fri, 11 Jan 2019 17:43:36 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=21842 Just purchase a SATA to USB adapter lead. Download the free version software not the free trial pro version unless you only need to use it once and follow the simple steps in pictures I have added making sure you click on the option for SSD in the last picture even if you just want to clone a normal HDD otherwise it may clone everything except the boot sector. If you do everything as pictured you will have an exact working copy of your OS with all programs installed and working as they previously were but much faster.

The only problem I have not yet conquered is if I clone my C drive into a larger drive I lose the extra storage space if I don't partition it to the same size or a smaller size the left over partition space becomes invisible and inaccessible, maybe someone knows a simple solution for this!
The lead cost me around £5 and a 250gb SSD £30 new I found some cheaper brands have a faster read and write speed than better known brands so would advise that as an important factor to consider in your purchase. Also leave the Laptop alone or overnight to transfer files it takes several hours to transfer files and if you use it while it is transferring some open files may fail. ]]> Just purchase a SATA to USB adapter lead. Download the free version software not the free trial pro version unless you only need to use it once and follow the simple steps in pictures I have added making sure you click on the option for SSD in the last picture even if you just want to clone a normal HDD otherwise it may clone everything except the boot sector. If you do everything as pictured you will have an exact working copy of your OS with all programs installed and working as they previously were but much faster.

The only problem I have not yet conquered is if I clone my C drive into a larger drive I lose the extra storage space if I don't partition it to the same size or a smaller size the left over partition space becomes invisible and inaccessible, maybe someone knows a simple solution for this!
The lead cost me around £5 and a 250gb SSD £30 new I found some cheaper brands have a faster read and write speed than better known brands so would advise that as an important factor to consider in your purchase. Also leave the Laptop alone or overnight to transfer files it takes several hours to transfer files and if you use it while it is transferring some open files may fail. ]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20938 Tue, 27 Mar 2018 20:43:38 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20938
Apparently trader collected car and drove for 2 days and found no fault. Went on test drive with owner and had no issue, 72 miles later while car is back with owner front left wheel falls off on motorway.

First reaction is that workshop must have made error as owner would have to be insane to loosen wheel bolts then drive on motorway.

However all of us are suspicious as workshop that performed the work are slow and careful, not normal rushing to beat book times type place. Also emails from the owner make it look like he is using the situation to blackmail the trader and owner is suggesting police want to speak to trader but owner is willing to not pass details to police in return for payment.

None of this is proof of anything, but one thing I found strange - we were sent pictures of the 4 bolts that came out (were held in by plastic cover).

The locking nut shows sign of thread damage as would be expected after a wheel separation, and one bolt hole on wheel is elongated.

However other 3 bolts/holes look totally perfect. This got all of us thinking, even if these bolts has spun off first and the wheel was only left held by the lock nut, there would have been significant damage to the end of the thread on the 3 bolts, as the plastic cover would have held the bolts pressed against the hub.

The other strange bit is how the photo evidence seem to show the lock nut was the only bolt that was holding on the wheel. I know the workshop well and know they normally slightly overtighten all the bolts except locking nut which will be done to exact torque spec to avoid damaging the locking nut.

Workshop had immediately offered to pay for another local workshop to remedy the damage, but when the trader showed me the blackmailing emails asking for further compensation I thought I would try to help them.

If I look online I can find American services to perform forensic analysis of wheel bolts, but I can't find any UK services. Does anyone know of any?]]>
Apparently trader collected car and drove for 2 days and found no fault. Went on test drive with owner and had no issue, 72 miles later while car is back with owner front left wheel falls off on motorway.

First reaction is that workshop must have made error as owner would have to be insane to loosen wheel bolts then drive on motorway.

However all of us are suspicious as workshop that performed the work are slow and careful, not normal rushing to beat book times type place. Also emails from the owner make it look like he is using the situation to blackmail the trader and owner is suggesting police want to speak to trader but owner is willing to not pass details to police in return for payment.

None of this is proof of anything, but one thing I found strange - we were sent pictures of the 4 bolts that came out (were held in by plastic cover).

The locking nut shows sign of thread damage as would be expected after a wheel separation, and one bolt hole on wheel is elongated.

However other 3 bolts/holes look totally perfect. This got all of us thinking, even if these bolts has spun off first and the wheel was only left held by the lock nut, there would have been significant damage to the end of the thread on the 3 bolts, as the plastic cover would have held the bolts pressed against the hub.

The other strange bit is how the photo evidence seem to show the lock nut was the only bolt that was holding on the wheel. I know the workshop well and know they normally slightly overtighten all the bolts except locking nut which will be done to exact torque spec to avoid damaging the locking nut.

Workshop had immediately offered to pay for another local workshop to remedy the damage, but when the trader showed me the blackmailing emails asking for further compensation I thought I would try to help them.

If I look online I can find American services to perform forensic analysis of wheel bolts, but I can't find any UK services. Does anyone know of any?]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20841 Sun, 04 Mar 2018 14:56:25 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20841

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20561 Thu, 21 Dec 2017 21:59:18 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20561 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20168 Mon, 11 Sep 2017 18:48:08 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20168
I have a home appliance, it is 6 CCD stereo, it's Bang & Olufsen.
I asks for pin code. I have serial number and I have dump as well.
Please can any one calculate pin code for me please?

Thank you very much!]]>
I have a home appliance, it is 6 CCD stereo, it's Bang & Olufsen.
I asks for pin code. I have serial number and I have dump as well.
Please can any one calculate pin code for me please?

Thank you very much!]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20002 Sun, 23 Jul 2017 12:30:11 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20002
EDIT:
Forgot to add this came out of a Seat car think Ibiza.

radio code.rar
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EDIT:
Forgot to add this came out of a Seat car think Ibiza.

radio code.rar
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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19173 Thu, 12 Jan 2017 09:42:09 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19173 It is as if there is actual sand on the vehicle.
Any ideas on how to handle this and remove the paint dust without affecting the original paint?]]> It is as if there is actual sand on the vehicle.
Any ideas on how to handle this and remove the paint dust without affecting the original paint?]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18522 Sat, 10 Sep 2016 06:08:06 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18522
I am working on this Chinese vehicle. It is a GWM Steed 2.8 TDi. It has on it EDC16c39 management Bosch 0 281 013 328, the vehicle is a non runner.
I have gone through the wiring and everything is on point. It has one fault code 282 ENGINE CONTROL UNIT INTERNAL FAULT.

Is there a way to repair this fault on these edc16c39?]]>
I am working on this Chinese vehicle. It is a GWM Steed 2.8 TDi. It has on it EDC16c39 management Bosch 0 281 013 328, the vehicle is a non runner.
I have gone through the wiring and everything is on point. It has one fault code 282 ENGINE CONTROL UNIT INTERNAL FAULT.

Is there a way to repair this fault on these edc16c39?]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18219 Sat, 09 Jul 2016 15:39:43 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18219 I have had problems with Nissens, AVA and Hella Behr.
I haven't tested Waeco yet.
So far condenser's and driers, no problem with compressors yet.
The problem is that the mounting parts are welded wrong so its impossible to get the part to fit, sometimes they are just a little off so you can improvise and get it to fit, but often they are like 10mm off!
I am starting to wonder if our suppliers are using Chinese clones instead of "original" aftermarket parts.
So I wonder if you also experience this kind of problem?]]> I have had problems with Nissens, AVA and Hella Behr.
I haven't tested Waeco yet.
So far condenser's and driers, no problem with compressors yet.
The problem is that the mounting parts are welded wrong so its impossible to get the part to fit, sometimes they are just a little off so you can improvise and get it to fit, but often they are like 10mm off!
I am starting to wonder if our suppliers are using Chinese clones instead of "original" aftermarket parts.
So I wonder if you also experience this kind of problem?]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17778 Wed, 27 Apr 2016 06:06:38 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17778
As we all know, the shelf life of a timing belt is a tricky info to get and often is not even available.
I have come across this "backstage" info from Dayco. Since is an important player among OEM equipment and many of us are open to replace the belt with the same manufacturer as the original, I thought it will be helpful info.

So, here it is:
- At the beginning of the infos stamped on the belt, you will have several numbers like (for example):
15434057
15434058
15434059
- The "decoding" goes like this:
15 - year of manufacture
43 - week of manufacture
4 - day of the corresponding week
057, 058, 059 - the position in the production mould (meaning that in production process there is a one-huge width belt which is numbered from 000 to 999 or whatever, which is then cut in slices to the desired functional width).

You should consider yourself "lucky" if you manage to buy a belt having less than 6-8 months of age (statistically speaking).

Also, a not-so-obvious info about these belts, is the following:
- In case you are using the belt on a car that need initial given-value tensioning, you should use a special tool for measuring, delivered also from Dayco
- In order to get the correct tensioning, you should introduce in the tool a code, which is called "testcode" and should be written somewhere on the belt packing box.

I know that such a tensioning tool is available also from Gates, using quite the same (code) principle.

Just hope I made some light in someone else's streets!

Good luck.
Laur]]>
As we all know, the shelf life of a timing belt is a tricky info to get and often is not even available.
I have come across this "backstage" info from Dayco. Since is an important player among OEM equipment and many of us are open to replace the belt with the same manufacturer as the original, I thought it will be helpful info.

So, here it is:
- At the beginning of the infos stamped on the belt, you will have several numbers like (for example):
15434057
15434058
15434059
- The "decoding" goes like this:
15 - year of manufacture
43 - week of manufacture
4 - day of the corresponding week
057, 058, 059 - the position in the production mould (meaning that in production process there is a one-huge width belt which is numbered from 000 to 999 or whatever, which is then cut in slices to the desired functional width).

You should consider yourself "lucky" if you manage to buy a belt having less than 6-8 months of age (statistically speaking).

Also, a not-so-obvious info about these belts, is the following:
- In case you are using the belt on a car that need initial given-value tensioning, you should use a special tool for measuring, delivered also from Dayco
- In order to get the correct tensioning, you should introduce in the tool a code, which is called "testcode" and should be written somewhere on the belt packing box.

I know that such a tensioning tool is available also from Gates, using quite the same (code) principle.

Just hope I made some light in someone else's streets!

Good luck.
Laur]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17350 Tue, 01 Mar 2016 15:35:21 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17350 http://www.driverguardian.co.uk/breakdow...0wodut4KRA]]> http://www.driverguardian.co.uk/breakdow...0wodut4KRA]]>