http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/ Sun, 03 May 2026 19:15:03 +0000 MyBB http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22593 Tue, 19 Nov 2019 13:41:55 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22593 I found these schematics floating around and I want to share with you, perhaps you can save a few pounds or bucks.
Best Regards.

[attachment=39700]
[attachment=39701]
[attachment=39702]]]> I found these schematics floating around and I want to share with you, perhaps you can save a few pounds or bucks.
Best Regards.

[attachment=39700]
[attachment=39701]
[attachment=39702]]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22479 Sun, 29 Sep 2019 00:56:41 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=22479 It will even run off the power to the lamp you want to go out.
I'm sure you creative thinkers will find a use. ]]> It will even run off the power to the lamp you want to go out.
I'm sure you creative thinkers will find a use. ]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=21050 Sat, 28 Apr 2018 23:04:38 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=21050 Here is cheap tool i made to use together with dvom.

Tool is not dumbproof so use it on your own risk.

I found inspiration in other tools already available.
It can be used for voltage drop testing, stress test of circuit and some more.
Consists only of rheostat which controls current in the circuit, so basically you can demand amount of current through the circuit on your will and that is pretty cool feature. You can ask for 1A current for voltage drop test or you can ask for 10A for stress test of the circuit.
Rheostat is 100W 30ohm, and can be found in some house devices or on the internet.

It's bulky but saved me couple of times, serving me very well.

If you have questions, ask, i will answer.

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]]> Here is cheap tool i made to use together with dvom.

Tool is not dumbproof so use it on your own risk.

I found inspiration in other tools already available.
It can be used for voltage drop testing, stress test of circuit and some more.
Consists only of rheostat which controls current in the circuit, so basically you can demand amount of current through the circuit on your will and that is pretty cool feature. You can ask for 1A current for voltage drop test or you can ask for 10A for stress test of the circuit.
Rheostat is 100W 30ohm, and can be found in some house devices or on the internet.

It's bulky but saved me couple of times, serving me very well.

If you have questions, ask, i will answer.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20028 Fri, 28 Jul 2017 20:40:33 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20028
Today i made prototype of Diagnostic Trolley in my shed, I used 66 mm * 39mm Plywood for frame, and 9 mm waterproof plywood for shelf tops. Upper top is angled 10 degrees, seems comfortable. All in all It turned out very sturdy.
Dimension are something like 1250 mm * 500 mm * 400 mm. Tailored for a midget like me.
All 4 wheels are rotating type. I used screw`s & glue except in lower frame i used 4 bolts & locknuts per side. I'm going to integrate battery power supply also.
Maybe integrate 4 part 220 V plug socket, so just plug extension cord & everything is powered up at once. Some hooks for cables & painting/finishing,
if it even turns out usable in garage use.






Have a nice weekend! ]]>
Today i made prototype of Diagnostic Trolley in my shed, I used 66 mm * 39mm Plywood for frame, and 9 mm waterproof plywood for shelf tops. Upper top is angled 10 degrees, seems comfortable. All in all It turned out very sturdy.
Dimension are something like 1250 mm * 500 mm * 400 mm. Tailored for a midget like me.
All 4 wheels are rotating type. I used screw`s & glue except in lower frame i used 4 bolts & locknuts per side. I'm going to integrate battery power supply also.
Maybe integrate 4 part 220 V plug socket, so just plug extension cord & everything is powered up at once. Some hooks for cables & painting/finishing,
if it even turns out usable in garage use.






Have a nice weekend! ]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19498 Fri, 17 Mar 2017 04:09:24 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19498 I do enjoy these "social" experiments.

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]]> I do enjoy these "social" experiments.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19321 Thu, 09 Feb 2017 19:49:38 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19321 Read ALL of this page to become familiar with the terms and explanations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics

The documents are password protected and from now on ALL of my future diagnostic documents will be protected.

The choice is simple because of the amount of leeching and non appreciation of not just my work but the work of of very smart members that are totally dedicated to this site.
I see three patterns:
(1) Professionals =
(2) Non professionals =
(3) Leeches =

The professionals working in this site in my opinion are NOT respected as they should be and that is a shame.
These professionals know who they are and a pleasure to work and learn with.

Password ONLY by PM for Active Members...]]> Read ALL of this page to become familiar with the terms and explanations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics

The documents are password protected and from now on ALL of my future diagnostic documents will be protected.

The choice is simple because of the amount of leeching and non appreciation of not just my work but the work of of very smart members that are totally dedicated to this site.
I see three patterns:
(1) Professionals =
(2) Non professionals =
(3) Leeches =

The professionals working in this site in my opinion are NOT respected as they should be and that is a shame.
These professionals know who they are and a pleasure to work and learn with.

Password ONLY by PM for Active Members...]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19024 Thu, 08 Dec 2016 15:45:52 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=19024 Those versions were generally Euro models but North American models were included if required.
With this tool, any scan tool can be used, an oscilloscope, a CAN analyser and in rare cases, flash program a controller.

YOU are your own warranty company!

Mine is high quality built and fuse protected with a sufficient power supply.

The document is for this site ONLY!
This document is for Auto Professionals that understand Ohm's Law and Kirchhoff's circuit laws and can read a wiring schematic with out setting the bench on fire or destroying the controllers that are tested.

Basic Bench Test Tool.pdf
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]]> Those versions were generally Euro models but North American models were included if required.
With this tool, any scan tool can be used, an oscilloscope, a CAN analyser and in rare cases, flash program a controller.

YOU are your own warranty company!

Mine is high quality built and fuse protected with a sufficient power supply.

The document is for this site ONLY!
This document is for Auto Professionals that understand Ohm's Law and Kirchhoff's circuit laws and can read a wiring schematic with out setting the bench on fire or destroying the controllers that are tested.

Basic Bench Test Tool.pdf
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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18583 Tue, 20 Sep 2016 03:11:12 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18583
I recently purchased UPA 1.3 green model with all the adapters and with the ZIF connection. I have seen people have a just a 9 PIN cable coming from it where there would solder individual wires to a board there working on. If I was to make one up. Would anyone know from PIN 1 to PIN 9 the wiring configuration what each one would do. Now I have both QQ4X and the UPA I want to learn as much as possible and use them to there full potential and start experimenting.

Thanks in advance.
Regards
Jay]]>
I recently purchased UPA 1.3 green model with all the adapters and with the ZIF connection. I have seen people have a just a 9 PIN cable coming from it where there would solder individual wires to a board there working on. If I was to make one up. Would anyone know from PIN 1 to PIN 9 the wiring configuration what each one would do. Now I have both QQ4X and the UPA I want to learn as much as possible and use them to there full potential and start experimenting.

Thanks in advance.
Regards
Jay]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18028 Mon, 06 Jun 2016 19:42:38 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18028
Just came across this wonderful product. Been out for a while, but first time i`ve seen it.





Link also attached to ChipQuik homepage for product.

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]]>
Just came across this wonderful product. Been out for a while, but first time i`ve seen it.





Link also attached to ChipQuik homepage for product.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17165 Sun, 31 Jan 2016 16:38:51 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=17165





I had old Audi 2 pin OBD2 adapter, which i used in my sophisticated testing unit.
Battery is from my kids quad bike, only leased! ]]>





I had old Audi 2 pin OBD2 adapter, which i used in my sophisticated testing unit.
Battery is from my kids quad bike, only leased! ]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=15037 Sun, 05 Apr 2015 21:28:50 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=15037
Recently the local VW Dealer sent me a VW Tiguan 1.4 TSi dual super charged and turbo charged after they had spent a lot of money in parts and time on it and still had a misfire.

Problem vehicle had:
Vehicle would drive perfectly and then all of a sudden develop a misfire on cylinder 4 and go into limp mode. Once switched off and started again the misfire would be gone until the engine was put under heavy load and the misfire would start again.

Action taken by Dealer:
Dealer firstly serviced vehicle and gave back to owner. Misfire still there. dealer then replaced all four coils and gave back to owner and misfire still there. Dealer then replaced ECU and gave back to owner and misfire still there. Dealer then sent vehicle to me for assessment and repair.

Actions taken by me:
On idle no misfire. Taken on test drive and noticed while super charger was working no misfire apparent but as soon as turbo came into working and engine started feeling load the misfire would develop and remain there until engine was switched off and started again.

Spark and fuel injection duration was measured and was 100% ok. Compression was taken and all four cylinders read well. Vehicle was then taken on road test again and as soon as the misfire started vehicle was stopped and compression taken on the side of the road and it was noted that cylinder 4 had only 3 Bar compression. A quick check on spark and fuel injection duration again and all was ok.

So now if we look at the cycle of a four stroke engine and we have good spark and good fueling we should then have ignition, (detonation), within the cylinder and thus compression. Taking all of the data into consideration if your spark and fuel is good the only thing left to create detonation in the cylinder would be air. If you don't have the correct air ratio then you don't have the spark igniting the fuel and thus no detonation resulting in a misfire.

With the cylinder not getting air you then have fuel injected into the cylinder and washing the oil from the piston rings and thereby you have low compression. So we knew then we had an air problem so removed the plastic intake manifold and then the aluminum lower intake manifold and found that the the metal flap for cylinder four had broken off and become stuck in the inlet port of the cylinder head. Why the vehicle only had a misfire under load when the turbo came into working was due to the fact that at idle and at low rpm the piece of flap stayed laying in the inlet port and as soon as load was put on the engine the piece of flap lifted up to block the air flow into the cylinder. We fitted a new lower intake manifold and straighten the flow plate in the cylinder head and the vehicle was 100% perfect again. It just goes to show that even the smallest things can be overlooked even by the dealer and the moral of all of this is always remember your four stroke cycle and never overlook the basics.

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]]>
Recently the local VW Dealer sent me a VW Tiguan 1.4 TSi dual super charged and turbo charged after they had spent a lot of money in parts and time on it and still had a misfire.

Problem vehicle had:
Vehicle would drive perfectly and then all of a sudden develop a misfire on cylinder 4 and go into limp mode. Once switched off and started again the misfire would be gone until the engine was put under heavy load and the misfire would start again.

Action taken by Dealer:
Dealer firstly serviced vehicle and gave back to owner. Misfire still there. dealer then replaced all four coils and gave back to owner and misfire still there. Dealer then replaced ECU and gave back to owner and misfire still there. Dealer then sent vehicle to me for assessment and repair.

Actions taken by me:
On idle no misfire. Taken on test drive and noticed while super charger was working no misfire apparent but as soon as turbo came into working and engine started feeling load the misfire would develop and remain there until engine was switched off and started again.

Spark and fuel injection duration was measured and was 100% ok. Compression was taken and all four cylinders read well. Vehicle was then taken on road test again and as soon as the misfire started vehicle was stopped and compression taken on the side of the road and it was noted that cylinder 4 had only 3 Bar compression. A quick check on spark and fuel injection duration again and all was ok.

So now if we look at the cycle of a four stroke engine and we have good spark and good fueling we should then have ignition, (detonation), within the cylinder and thus compression. Taking all of the data into consideration if your spark and fuel is good the only thing left to create detonation in the cylinder would be air. If you don't have the correct air ratio then you don't have the spark igniting the fuel and thus no detonation resulting in a misfire.

With the cylinder not getting air you then have fuel injected into the cylinder and washing the oil from the piston rings and thereby you have low compression. So we knew then we had an air problem so removed the plastic intake manifold and then the aluminum lower intake manifold and found that the the metal flap for cylinder four had broken off and become stuck in the inlet port of the cylinder head. Why the vehicle only had a misfire under load when the turbo came into working was due to the fact that at idle and at low rpm the piece of flap stayed laying in the inlet port and as soon as load was put on the engine the piece of flap lifted up to block the air flow into the cylinder. We fitted a new lower intake manifold and straighten the flow plate in the cylinder head and the vehicle was 100% perfect again. It just goes to show that even the smallest things can be overlooked even by the dealer and the moral of all of this is always remember your four stroke cycle and never overlook the basics.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14953 Sat, 28 Mar 2015 20:27:03 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14953

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14737 Thu, 05 Mar 2015 21:16:23 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14737

http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/show...?tid=14098

See the video link. This is excellent for testing and make complicated circuits in minutes.
Conductive pen exists for some years but printing... new.
Lets think...

Join a 3D printer and a conductive printer... and multilayer circuity.



Don't need Chinese any more, lets make at home.

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]]>

http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/show...?tid=14098

See the video link. This is excellent for testing and make complicated circuits in minutes.
Conductive pen exists for some years but printing... new.
Lets think...

Join a 3D printer and a conductive printer... and multilayer circuity.



Don't need Chinese any more, lets make at home.

video link.txt
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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14098 Mon, 05 Jan 2015 05:08:15 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=14098 I have done some spare parts and tools, and I'm looking forward for new experience with this new fantastic machine.
Two of the 3D printers are already sold to two garages for making tools like cam fixing adapters quick and easy.

For those of you that are not familiar to this new type of machine I'll show you an example.
This one I needed so I just downloaded it, some other things I have done all the CAD by myself.

While pulling my Mazda apart to fix something I noticed that a few clips on the grill were missing/broken so I made some new ones that work perfectly in its place.

Replaces:
For Isuzu Replaces 8942180270
For Mazda Replaces B092-50-715
For Toyota Replaces 90467-13011
For Mitsubishi Replaces MB153825

May also suite:
Ford Escort
Some Hondas
Plymouth Laser.

If you have any need or ideas, please let me know.

WIXO

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]]> I have done some spare parts and tools, and I'm looking forward for new experience with this new fantastic machine.
Two of the 3D printers are already sold to two garages for making tools like cam fixing adapters quick and easy.

For those of you that are not familiar to this new type of machine I'll show you an example.
This one I needed so I just downloaded it, some other things I have done all the CAD by myself.

While pulling my Mazda apart to fix something I noticed that a few clips on the grill were missing/broken so I made some new ones that work perfectly in its place.

Replaces:
For Isuzu Replaces 8942180270
For Mazda Replaces B092-50-715
For Toyota Replaces 90467-13011
For Mitsubishi Replaces MB153825

May also suite:
Ford Escort
Some Hondas
Plymouth Laser.

If you have any need or ideas, please let me know.

WIXO

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=13591 Thu, 20 Nov 2014 05:49:12 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=13591
I have attached a link to a video I have made to show the members how to inspect the K1 and K2 clutch packs found in the VAG 6spd DSG gearboxes which can be checked within five minutes. It is not as hard as everyone thinks. Just watch and read the captions I have made. Hope it helps the members.

Enjoy.

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]]>
I have attached a link to a video I have made to show the members how to inspect the K1 and K2 clutch packs found in the VAG 6spd DSG gearboxes which can be checked within five minutes. It is not as hard as everyone thinks. Just watch and read the captions I have made. Hope it helps the members.

Enjoy.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=13498 Thu, 13 Nov 2014 21:15:46 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=13498
For those members who have an interest in or work on Vag 02E DSG gearboxes I have put together a small trouble shooter guide for the 11 different solenoids found on the mechatronics units found in these gearboxes.

For now I am just going to give you an overview of the simple task of checking the Ohms on each of the solenoids as I have seen many solenoids fail in these gearboxes but do not show up any fault codes but they cause problems such as the feel of clutch slip, only 1st or 2nd gear and no reverse and often show signs of clutch slip when in fact it is solenoids with low Ohms readings which are the problem.

In my pics you will see I have named each of the solenoids so that you can refer to them and check the Ohms readings you should get from a good solenoid. In my next write-up I shall explain what each of the solenoids does and how it effects the gearbox when it is faulty. (Note that the readings from the solenoids in these pics show all good Ohms readings. The gearbox was brought to me as only a unit buy another VAG shop and the actual problem with it is clearly visible in these pics but if you don't work on them everyday as I do it would go unseen. Can anyone tell me if they can see the fault on this gearbox??? Let us see how sharp the members are.)

11 solenoids:

Gear Actuator Solenoids are:

N88 = 7 -9 Ohms
N89 = 7 -9 Ohms
N90 = 7 -9 Ohms
N91 = 7 -9 Ohms

Pressure Control Solenoids:

N217 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N218 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N233 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N371 = 4 - 6 Ohms

Multiplexer Solenoid:

N92 = 15 - 20 Ohms

Clutch Pressure Solenoids:

N215 K1 = 4.5 - 6.5 Ohms
N216 K2 = 4.5 - 6.5 Ohms

You can see in each pic the solenoids been tested and the Ohms reading which each solenoid gives on the meter. I hope this will help those who have been working on these gearboxes.

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]]>
For those members who have an interest in or work on Vag 02E DSG gearboxes I have put together a small trouble shooter guide for the 11 different solenoids found on the mechatronics units found in these gearboxes.

For now I am just going to give you an overview of the simple task of checking the Ohms on each of the solenoids as I have seen many solenoids fail in these gearboxes but do not show up any fault codes but they cause problems such as the feel of clutch slip, only 1st or 2nd gear and no reverse and often show signs of clutch slip when in fact it is solenoids with low Ohms readings which are the problem.

In my pics you will see I have named each of the solenoids so that you can refer to them and check the Ohms readings you should get from a good solenoid. In my next write-up I shall explain what each of the solenoids does and how it effects the gearbox when it is faulty. (Note that the readings from the solenoids in these pics show all good Ohms readings. The gearbox was brought to me as only a unit buy another VAG shop and the actual problem with it is clearly visible in these pics but if you don't work on them everyday as I do it would go unseen. Can anyone tell me if they can see the fault on this gearbox??? Let us see how sharp the members are.)

11 solenoids:

Gear Actuator Solenoids are:

N88 = 7 -9 Ohms
N89 = 7 -9 Ohms
N90 = 7 -9 Ohms
N91 = 7 -9 Ohms

Pressure Control Solenoids:

N217 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N218 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N233 = 4 - 6 Ohms
N371 = 4 - 6 Ohms

Multiplexer Solenoid:

N92 = 15 - 20 Ohms

Clutch Pressure Solenoids:

N215 K1 = 4.5 - 6.5 Ohms
N216 K2 = 4.5 - 6.5 Ohms

You can see in each pic the solenoids been tested and the Ohms reading which each solenoid gives on the meter. I hope this will help those who have been working on these gearboxes.

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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12818 Wed, 17 Sep 2014 19:32:09 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12818

VCDS has coding for the CR 2.5 TDi CCS but not the CR 2.0 TDi, here is solution...





Module 01 coding comparison

63 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY13) PS109 Bluemotion with factory fit A/C & CCS & Start stop system

01 19 40 12 20 44 0D 08 00 00

12 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY12) PS136 without factory fit A/C & CCS & Start stop system

01 19 40 10 20 04 0C 08 00 00

A/C coding , CCS Coding , unknown coding(suspect is start stop system)

Autoscan of 63 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY13) PS109 Bluemotion with factory fit A/C & CCS

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Autoscan of 12 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY12) PS136 without factory fit A/C & CCS

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CCS Kit for MY06 - MY11 VAG P/N:- 2E0 998 527

Comprises of:-

repair set fitting instructions
2E0 941 779 trim
2E0 953 504 switch for cruise control system
2E0 419 631 steering column trim for models with cruise control system
2E0 721 507 B accelerator pedal with electronic module

The kit is cheaper than buying parts as separate, dealer declined to sell kit against MY12 vehicle as not compatible but the MY12 vehicles have the same parts when CCS fitted, I used MY08 details to order parts.

Here is a PDF of install but is the Sprinter version, other than coding same process.

Sprinter CCS Guide.pdf
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ATB
G]]>

VCDS has coding for the CR 2.5 TDi CCS but not the CR 2.0 TDi, here is solution...





Module 01 coding comparison

63 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY13) PS109 Bluemotion with factory fit A/C & CCS & Start stop system

01 19 40 12 20 44 0D 08 00 00

12 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY12) PS136 without factory fit A/C & CCS & Start stop system

01 19 40 10 20 04 0C 08 00 00

A/C coding , CCS Coding , unknown coding(suspect is start stop system)

Autoscan of 63 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY13) PS109 Bluemotion with factory fit A/C & CCS

MY13 Module 01.txt
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Autoscan of 12 plate CR35 MWB HR (MY12) PS136 without factory fit A/C & CCS

MY12 Module 01.txt
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Downloaded:	1 times
Size:	1.17 KB

CCS Kit for MY06 - MY11 VAG P/N:- 2E0 998 527

Comprises of:-

repair set fitting instructions
2E0 941 779 trim
2E0 953 504 switch for cruise control system
2E0 419 631 steering column trim for models with cruise control system
2E0 721 507 B accelerator pedal with electronic module

The kit is cheaper than buying parts as separate, dealer declined to sell kit against MY12 vehicle as not compatible but the MY12 vehicles have the same parts when CCS fitted, I used MY08 details to order parts.

Here is a PDF of install but is the Sprinter version, other than coding same process.

Sprinter CCS Guide.pdf
File Type:
Downloaded:	13 times
Size:	264.98 KB

ATB
G]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12704 Sun, 07 Sep 2014 18:04:28 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12704 Is a Star Diagnose system too expensive for you?
Did you always wanted to make your OWN CS7.4 multiplexer?
Then, this is your lucky day...

Here is what you need to make the MPX your self @home:
- Schematic
- Partlist
- Gerber files for PCB manufacturing
- Hex file for PIC
- Some pictures of the assembled unit

Works with CS7.4 recently uploaded by our good friend doktorabg.

Pass: ForAPMembersOnly

_MyCarsoftMPX.rar
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Size:	988.75 KB

]]> Is a Star Diagnose system too expensive for you?
Did you always wanted to make your OWN CS7.4 multiplexer?
Then, this is your lucky day...

Here is what you need to make the MPX your self @home:
- Schematic
- Partlist
- Gerber files for PCB manufacturing
- Hex file for PIC
- Some pictures of the assembled unit

Works with CS7.4 recently uploaded by our good friend doktorabg.

Pass: ForAPMembersOnly

_MyCarsoftMPX.rar
File Type:
Downloaded:	61 times
Size:	988.75 KB

]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12488 Mon, 18 Aug 2014 17:28:45 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12488
Those of you who know me will know I have a passion for VAG DSG and CVT gearboxes and I am constantly trying to master every aspect of these gearboxes as both are very unique in their own way. In this post I am going to show you how to deal with certain fault codes which are most common in the Vag 02E 6spd DSG Mechatronics units found in the Golf 5 GTI.

Here I will deal with fault codes:19143 - Unexpected / Implausible Mechanical Gear Disengagement
P2711 - 002

and

fault code:17116 - Gear 2
P0732 - 000 - Incorrect Ratio

In my country these are the most common fault codes showing up in the Mechatronics units and the symptoms are:

Only 1st gear and will not change over into higher gears
No reverse
No tip shift mode
No paddle shift

If you look at these fault codes in ross tech: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php...711/010001

It directs you to sensors G501 and G502 however it also directs you to worn double clutch unit. In the past I have seen other workshops pull the gearboxes out and replace double clutches only to find the problem is still there. I have seen workshops strip the gearboxes down and replace G501 and G502 sensors and then they end up replacing the Mechatronics unit and problem solved. In this DIY I am going to focus only on these above fault codes and at a later stage deal with other fault codes and repair methods.

The above fault codes both point to the output shaft speed sensors and if the Mechatronics unit sees that the input and output speed sensor are seeing different speeds it puts the gearbox into limp mode and throws up the above fault codes.

If you ever have such a problem and have checked measuring blocks and you are sure the speeds are different input and output then move onto removing the Mechatronics unit and if you have enough faith in your own skill to repair it yourself then you can open it up as I have shown in the pics I have attached hereto.

Take a look at my pics and see how I have opened the unit. (as you can see it does not look very neat but my way works just fine for me). You can use a dremmel or ''hot knife'' attachment to cut the unit open. Once you have cut the unit open take your tweezers and check each wire is still securely attached/bonded to the pad. Sometimes you will find the aluminum wires have come loose and in that case you can repair the unit with soldering the wires back on with Alusole.

I have had 8 mechatronics units in my shop in the past two weeks and all have had the same fault codes as above and none of them had loose wires, however all 8 of the units I opened had the same two wires touching each other, (as I have indicated in my pics). The simple solution/repair was to separate the two wires, seal the unit again and fit it to the vehicle and solved the problem each time after carrying out the basic settings. These units are meant to be able to withstand 33g-force while they are mounted in the gearbox so a person would expect the units to take a lot of punishment but if you take a close look at the pics I have attached you will notice that the two wires which give the problems were not bonded in the centre of the pads when they were made in the factory. I can only assume that the bonding machine was not set up correctly at that point in the manufacture as all 8 units which I have repaired in the past few weeks all had the wires bonded badly and off centre. How the wires eventually touch and thereby cause problems with the unit I can only assume is due to heat in the gearbox since the wires at aluminum and the g-forces of bumpy roads causes them to eventually touch.

I hope this little DIY will help those members who have had these fault codes before. There a lot of companies out there charging big money to repair these units but after reading this post you can do it yourself.

IMG_6616.JPG
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]]>
Those of you who know me will know I have a passion for VAG DSG and CVT gearboxes and I am constantly trying to master every aspect of these gearboxes as both are very unique in their own way. In this post I am going to show you how to deal with certain fault codes which are most common in the Vag 02E 6spd DSG Mechatronics units found in the Golf 5 GTI.

Here I will deal with fault codes:19143 - Unexpected / Implausible Mechanical Gear Disengagement
P2711 - 002

and

fault code:17116 - Gear 2
P0732 - 000 - Incorrect Ratio

In my country these are the most common fault codes showing up in the Mechatronics units and the symptoms are:

Only 1st gear and will not change over into higher gears
No reverse
No tip shift mode
No paddle shift

If you look at these fault codes in ross tech: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php...711/010001

It directs you to sensors G501 and G502 however it also directs you to worn double clutch unit. In the past I have seen other workshops pull the gearboxes out and replace double clutches only to find the problem is still there. I have seen workshops strip the gearboxes down and replace G501 and G502 sensors and then they end up replacing the Mechatronics unit and problem solved. In this DIY I am going to focus only on these above fault codes and at a later stage deal with other fault codes and repair methods.

The above fault codes both point to the output shaft speed sensors and if the Mechatronics unit sees that the input and output speed sensor are seeing different speeds it puts the gearbox into limp mode and throws up the above fault codes.

If you ever have such a problem and have checked measuring blocks and you are sure the speeds are different input and output then move onto removing the Mechatronics unit and if you have enough faith in your own skill to repair it yourself then you can open it up as I have shown in the pics I have attached hereto.

Take a look at my pics and see how I have opened the unit. (as you can see it does not look very neat but my way works just fine for me). You can use a dremmel or ''hot knife'' attachment to cut the unit open. Once you have cut the unit open take your tweezers and check each wire is still securely attached/bonded to the pad. Sometimes you will find the aluminum wires have come loose and in that case you can repair the unit with soldering the wires back on with Alusole.

I have had 8 mechatronics units in my shop in the past two weeks and all have had the same fault codes as above and none of them had loose wires, however all 8 of the units I opened had the same two wires touching each other, (as I have indicated in my pics). The simple solution/repair was to separate the two wires, seal the unit again and fit it to the vehicle and solved the problem each time after carrying out the basic settings. These units are meant to be able to withstand 33g-force while they are mounted in the gearbox so a person would expect the units to take a lot of punishment but if you take a close look at the pics I have attached you will notice that the two wires which give the problems were not bonded in the centre of the pads when they were made in the factory. I can only assume that the bonding machine was not set up correctly at that point in the manufacture as all 8 units which I have repaired in the past few weeks all had the wires bonded badly and off centre. How the wires eventually touch and thereby cause problems with the unit I can only assume is due to heat in the gearbox since the wires at aluminum and the g-forces of bumpy roads causes them to eventually touch.

I hope this little DIY will help those members who have had these fault codes before. There a lot of companies out there charging big money to repair these units but after reading this post you can do it yourself.

IMG_6616.JPG
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Size:	277.95 KB

IMG_6621.JPG
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Size:	237.9 KB

IMG_6622.JPG
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IMG_6623.JPG
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]]> http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12251 Sat, 26 Jul 2014 14:53:05 +0000 http://www.auto-professionals.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=12251
I repair an average of 3 to 4 Audi multitronic cvt gearboxes each week with the problems ranging from burnt out forward clutches, broken drive chains, faulty control modules to coolant contamination into the gearbox from the radiator.

Due to the hot climate in my country the most common failure I see in these gearboxes is when the gearbox oil cooler which is build into the engine cooling radiator cracks due to overheating and coolant finds its way into the gearbox and results in no drive and damage to the gearbox. Most of the time workshops simply toss the gearbox out and fit a second hand one. (however you never know what you getting when buying a second hand gearbox).

I find that most of the workshop who do try to repair these gearboxes have very little success due to the fact that they simply do not know what to look out for and therefore become scared of the job and do not strip the complete gearbox. I have just had one from another workshop who tried to fix it but just can not get it right due to not stripping and cleaning out correctly. Members, those of you who have opened these gearboxes before would know that 99% of the time the person does not open and check the valve body and oil pump and where you find the gearbox has been contaminated with coolant the valve body and oil pump will be 99% of your problem. Below I have attached some pics with wording attached on them which will give you some clear view of what to do if ever you come across coolant contamination in one of these gearboxes. There is not a lot of parts which need to be replaced and you can make great profit out of these jobs. Note that this write up covers coolant in gearbox and next write up will focus on worn chain or burnt clutches. I hope this will answer some questions and if I have not covered something you would like to know then feel free to ask.

Audi CVT Multitronic Coolant Contamination.txt
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Size:	73 bytes

]]>
I repair an average of 3 to 4 Audi multitronic cvt gearboxes each week with the problems ranging from burnt out forward clutches, broken drive chains, faulty control modules to coolant contamination into the gearbox from the radiator.

Due to the hot climate in my country the most common failure I see in these gearboxes is when the gearbox oil cooler which is build into the engine cooling radiator cracks due to overheating and coolant finds its way into the gearbox and results in no drive and damage to the gearbox. Most of the time workshops simply toss the gearbox out and fit a second hand one. (however you never know what you getting when buying a second hand gearbox).

I find that most of the workshop who do try to repair these gearboxes have very little success due to the fact that they simply do not know what to look out for and therefore become scared of the job and do not strip the complete gearbox. I have just had one from another workshop who tried to fix it but just can not get it right due to not stripping and cleaning out correctly. Members, those of you who have opened these gearboxes before would know that 99% of the time the person does not open and check the valve body and oil pump and where you find the gearbox has been contaminated with coolant the valve body and oil pump will be 99% of your problem. Below I have attached some pics with wording attached on them which will give you some clear view of what to do if ever you come across coolant contamination in one of these gearboxes. There is not a lot of parts which need to be replaced and you can make great profit out of these jobs. Note that this write up covers coolant in gearbox and next write up will focus on worn chain or burnt clutches. I hope this will answer some questions and if I have not covered something you would like to know then feel free to ask.

Audi CVT Multitronic Coolant Contamination.txt
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Downloaded:	129 times
Size:	73 bytes

]]>